The following instructions include those for a Finished Edge Note Card Holder & Pinked Edge Note Card Holder. Most of the steps are the same – so pay attentions to the variations!! As with all sewing projects, it is a good idea to read instructions thoroughly before starting.

1/2″ seam allowance is used in all steps ~ reinforce your stitch with a backstitch when you start and stop ~ top-stitching should be done at 1/8″

You will need the following for each holder:

1 Felt Fat Quarter

1 Fat Quarter

1/4 yard Ultra Firm (stabilizer)

3/4 yard 5/8″ Ribbon

Scraps of fusible interfacing – I use Decor bond:)

Finished Edge Note Card Holder

Step 1: Prepare Pieces. Cut all pieces out. Fuse décorbond to wrong side of front half of each pocket piece and wrong side of binding fabric.

Step 2: Press top 1/2″ of felt pen pocket down & top stitch. Baste two long edges of pen pocket to fabric binding piece matching bottom edge.

Step 3: Sew two inside felt pieces to either side of fabric binding piece along the long edge. Press seam allowance towards outer edges.

Step 4: Make pockets by folding pocket fabric in half (should measure 5” x 7”) right sides together and sewing around two long edges and one short edge of pocket – leaving an opening on one long edge to turn the pocket right side out. *Do not sew the folded edge. Repeat for second pocket. Clip corners, turn right side out, press and top-stitch one long edge. TIP: when sewing two fabrics together where one fabric has a fused interfacing, place the fabric without interfacing down – towards the feed dog. This will help prevent the fabric from slipping or shifting.

Step 5: Pin pockets to inner felt pieces with top-stitched edges facing in toward binding fabric and interfaced sides facing up. Space pockets about 1″ from top, bottom, and outside edges. On back – pin two layers of Ultrafirm centered (you should have about 5/8″ all the way around) on the inside piece. Top-stitch around the three un-stitched sides of each pocket. This will secure the pockets and keep the Ultrafirm from shifting through the rest of the construction.

Step 6: Appliqué if desired to front piece of felt.

Step 7: Pin ribbon to inside piece of felt centered on left and right sides @ 4 1/4″ mark.

Step 8: Place right sides together of outer and inner felt pieces. You should not be able to see the ribbon at this point. Make sure your appliqué is positioned where it needs to be so that once the project is turned right side out – it appears the way you want it.

Step 9: Stitch around the perimeter leaving about a 4″ opening at the bottom back side of the holder (underneath the pocket on the right side). Make sure to backstitch when you start and stop. Clip corners, turn right side out, press.

Step 10: Top-stitch around perimeter or slip stitch opening closed.

Pinked Edge Note Card Holder

Step 1: Prepare Pieces. Cut all pieces out. Fuse décorbond to wrong side of front half of each pocket piece and wrong side of binding fabric.

Step 2: Press top 1/2″ of felt pen pocket down & top stitch. Sew felt tabs to each short end of fabric binding. Press seams towards middle and top-stitch. Baste two long edges of pen pocket to fabric binding piece matching bottom edge.

Step 3: Sew two inside felt pieces to either side of binding piece along the long edge. Press seam allowance towards outer edges.

Step 4: Make pockets by folding pocket fabric in half (should measure 5” x 7”) right sides together and sewing around two long edges and one short edge of pocket – leaving an opening on one long edge to turn the pocket right side out. *Do not sew the folded edge. Repeat for second pocket. Clip corners, turn right side out, press and top-stitch one long edge. TIP: when sewing two fabrics together where one fabric has a fused interfacing, place the fabric without interfacing down – towards the feed dog. This will help prevent the fabric from slipping or shifting.

Step 5: Pin pockets to inner felt pieces with top-stitched edges facing in toward binding fabric and interfaced sides facing up. Space pockets about 1″ from top, bottom, and outside edges. On back – pin two layers of Ultrafirm centered (you should have about 5/8″ all the way around) on the inside piece.  Secure ribbon underneath the outer edge of each pocket – centered at 4 1/4″.

Top-stitch around the three un-stitched sides of each pocket. This will secure the pockets, ribbon and keep the Ultrafirm from shifting through the rest of the construction.

Step 6: Appliqué if desired to front piece of felt.

Step 7: Place wrong sides of outer and inner felt pieces together making sure you appliqué is placed where you want it. Pin in place. Stitch around perimeter making sure not to sew down the ribbon.

Step 8: Use pinking shears to trim seam allowance.

Embellished Notecards

I picked up this box of 100 blank notecards & envelopes in fun colors from Target for about $13 – and used fusible web to adhere fabric to the front. This is an easy way to personalize a gift for anyone on your list!

I can’t take all the credit for this one. A couple of months ago, I ran across the idea in a Better Homes & Gardens Magazine. And since I am at least a couple of months behind on projects (if not years) I am just getting around to this one!

I purchased a plain white shadow box from Hobby Lobby about 4 years ago – who knows what I planned on doing with it then – but I am sure it was 50% off – isn’t everything there on sale?

So there it was, in the closet under the stairs…calling my name.

There are some other things you are going to need – so here’s your list:

Drill

Drill Bits

Staple Gun

Screws

1/2″ thick piece of wood cut to the inside dimension of the shadow box

Fabric – I only needed 5/8 yard – it will depend on the size of your box

Elastic (optional)

Sewing Machine & Thread (optional)

Hooks – I used cup hooks & a cute key holder I found at The Container Store

There are so many ways to do this – I copied the features that my current jewelry box offers since I like it – just wanted my bling to be more accessible – maybe I will actually accessorize – doubt it! Since fabric is readily accesible, I chose something that wouldn’t take away from the jewelry and would match our bedroom decor.

First things first – have a piece of wood cut to fit the inner dimension of the shadow box – I used a piece of  scrap – so it is painted, not necessary since it is going to get covered. You could always just use a piece  of painted wood – or cover it with paper instead of fabric!

Next, figure out how you are going to cover it – and prepare. I cut a piece of fabric large enough to overlap  to the back by about 2″ all around. Then, I sewed pockets for my bracelets at the bottom – one strip of  pockets are flat (for thin bangles). The other strip of pockets is gathered (for thick bangles). I also used a 1 3/4″ strip of felt  to make tiny pockets for rings.

Use your staple gun to staple the fabric to the back of the board – wrap it like a package so you don’t  have too much bulk in the corners!

This is when it gets a little trickier. You know the back of the shadow box – it’s a 1/8″ board that holds everything together? Slide your covered board to the back of the box (by now hopefully you realize that you have to discard the glass) so that it is flush against that thin board that came with the box. Holding tight, screw through the thin board into the back of your 1/2″ board. I used screws that we had on hand. Luckily, they were short enough to not poke through and they had a larger head so they didn’t sink right into that thin board. Do this in all 4 corners – or more if you are paranoid!

Now your covered board is attached to the back of the shadow box! You can add more hooks as you see fit – then use the hangers on the back of the shadow box to hang it! I put mine in the closet – right next to my shoes!! I am ready to accessorize!!

A little tip – if you are putting cup hooks or other screws through the fabric on your board – make sure you pre-drill so the screw doesn’t get wrapped up in your fabric. I found that it helped when I put the drill in reverse – then forward – it made a little hole in the fabric and I was in the clear!

This is a list that Lila Tueller recently discussed and shared with us at a seminar at International Quilt Market. She has come up with some great new patterns and is releasing a line of laminated cottons herself through Riley Blake.

1. You may have heard that pins are a problem. It’s true that pinholes are slightly more noticeable than with regular cottons. But I have found that they are quite minimal, and not worth the trouble of using fancy tapes and such. Test it for yourself on a scrap and see what you think! If you do notice pinholes, use double-faced sewing tape such as “Collins(TM)” or just use ordinary paper clips to hold things together in place of pins.

2. Ironing is traditionaly a huge “no-no” where vinyl-coated fabrics are concerned. But with these new laminate I have found that you really can iron them and apply fusible material to them, provided you yuse a press cloth to protect the laminated surface from your hot iron. It also protects you iron fron getting gummed up and messy. You can iron on the front or back side using the press cloth. I just use about a 20″ square of plain white cotton or muslin for this.

3. When sewing on the right side of the laminate, sometimes the machine foot will stick to the surface, creating an undesirable drag. I’ve heard that putting masking tape on the bottom of the machine foot helps with this. But then you have a sticky foot when you take off the tape. (It’s true.) Instead I recommend wiping the bottom of the machine foot with just a little bit of machine oil using your finger. It works like a charm! And just a little goes a long way. The beauty of the Laminate is that it doesn’t absorb the oil. There is also a lubricant on the market called “Sew-Ease,” that works as well. Or, you may want to invest in a walking foot for super easy sewing.

4. Rather than machine washing or drying, just use a damp cloth with a little soapy water to wipe away any smudges you may encounter. It makes for a worry-free finished project you can really use and enjoy!

So that’s it! I hope you will use these amazing laminates as much as I have!

Sincerely,

Having lived in the south most of my life, I have been exposed to things too cute for words. And in the case of the “pillowcase” dress – too easy not to try! This is a great project for new sewers because with very little money or cutting involved, you can practice basic sewing skills like: measuring, working with bias tape, hemming and threading elastic or ribbon through casings.

In my search for instructions on-line, there were lots of results that showed up. Some had variations in their constructions but many of the sites boasted instructions that were identical to the next. What I did find in common with most is the size of the armholes: cut a 3” armhole for smaller children and a 4” armhole for larger children. Of course, if you are making this for a 1-year old, the armhole is probably going to be quite different than if you are making it for a 4-year old. My suggestion: take an article of clothing that fits the child (like a tank top) and use the armholes as a guide. Most also agreed with the following chart for lengths of the dress:

• 6 months – 14 1/4in
• 12 months – 16 1/4in
• 18 months – 17 1/4in
• 2T – 18 1/4in
• 3T – 19 1/4in
• 4T – 20 1/4in

And, with the repeated observation that many pillowcases were just too wide for the skinny little ones they were putting them on. May I suggest determining what your finished width needs to be and sew up one side of the pillowcase?

Here are the sites I checked out in the process: Baby Rabies, Grace Violet, Sewing Mamas & Bumblebee Linens

With that all out of the way, let’s get started.

Step 1: purchase a pillowcase or make one yourself. The one I am using in this tutorial comes from a pillowcase pattern on All People Quilt.

Step 2: Figure out the desired finished length of the dress (measure from your child’s shoulder to where you want it to fall at her knees), add 1 ½” and cut the top edge (or sewn end) of the pillowcase off using a ruler, rotary cutter and self healing mat. This would be a good time to change the width of the dress too, by stitching one side of the pillowcase, trimming off the excess and finishing the edge using an overlock stitch.

Step 3: Fold the top edge under 1 ½” using an ezy-hem ruler (these are the best). This will be used for the ribbon casing.

Step 4: By folding the pillowcase in half lengthwise, and cutting the armhole you will have identical armholes. Your armhole will start 1 ½” down (b/c of the casing) and you will want to allow for the seam allowance when you attach your biased tape. I allowed for a ½” seam allowance. If you want a finished 3” armhole, only cut it 2 ½”.

Step 5: Using the ezy-hem ruler, press the top ½” of your 1 ½” casing towards the wrong side of the fabric. Now you will have a finished edge when you top-stitch your casing.

Step 6: Make your bias tape – or buy some. In this picture, I used my ruler, rotary cutter, and self-healing mat to cut a 2” strip on the bias. Press the bias tape in half long ways and pin to the right side of the armholes with all the raw edges aligned. Before pinning, open up the creases of the casing. Make sure you are pinning top edge to top edge of dress, this will conceal any raw edges of the bias tape within the casing.

Step 7: Stitch using a ½” seam allowance. Then trim away excess seam allowance leaving about 1/8”.

Step 8: Press, pin and top-stitch bias tape to inside of armhole. Now you have a finished armhole that lays nicely, even though it is curved.

Step 9: Re-iron the top ½” and 1” that is forming your casing down. Top-stitch, leaving the sides open. This is where you will thread your ribbon through.

Step 10: Thread your ribbon through the casing using your preferred method – mine happens to be using a loop turner, but you can also use a safety pin or bobby pin. Using a continuous piece of ribbon, tie one bow at one should. Or use two lengths of ribbon to have bows on both shoulders!

Way over a month ago, a then customer (but, happy to say now co-crafter, Lauren) brought Robin and I each a “Friendship Can.” Of course we were thrilled to get it – who wouldn’t have been, but what is even cooler is what you do with it! Now, I had never seen one so when I popped open the lid and read this…

A Friendship Container

In the renewing of an old English tradition,

it’s told how a special container is traditionally passed

back and forth as each occasion arises and is

exchanged through the years by friends and

loved ones. It may contain soothing bath salts

to enjoy in a quiet moment. Maybe it will be

returned with special chocolates, a piece of

jewelry, potpourri, or an antique handkerchief

for drying tears. In any case use your imagination

to fill your container and pass it back and forth

through the years. After all, the real gift inside is

the treasure of your friendship.

I couldn’t wait to make a handful of them myself and start sharing the friendship!  I literally rushed to Hope Depot and only left a few of the quart-size paint cans that they had on the shelf! Luckily, I had all the other supplies on hand – spray adhesive, mod-podge, a paint brush, double-sided fusible web, a rotary mat and rotary cutter, an iron and of course…fabric! But alas, I had no time on my hands. So friends, you must wait…but know I am thinking about you. Even so far as getting goodies to fill the “Friendship Containers.”

Step 1: Pick a font and print out “Friendship.” I used Rockwell, font size: 150. Once I printed this out, I cut each letter out, then repositioned them so all the letters would be somewhat connected and made a copy on card stock. Once this was cut out it became my template.

Step 2: Press fusible web to the wrong side of the fabric with a hot iron. I used the mirror image of my template to draw the words out on the paper side of the fusible web. You may notice that the tracing isn’t real crisp ~ I didn’t worry too much since this was the paper side and wouldn’t show once I pulled it off the back of the fabric. I was able to cut crisper lines and it saved my hands from early-onset arthritis. Remember, I almost bought all the cans Home Depot had in stock!

Step 3: With the sharpest scissors I could get my hands on – I cut out the letters. Then, peeled the paper off the back and pressed it with a hot iron onto the fabric I chose for the outside of the can.

Step 4: Spray the back of the fabric with spray adhesive (do this outside) and press the fabric onto the can. Allow it to dry. Following mod-podge directions, put a light coat over the fabric and allow it to dry. Now, for the fun part…filling it! Remember how I had time to buy the treats, but not finish the cans – I promise I didn’t get the Valentine’s Day candy on sale – I am just a wee bit behind these days!!

Thanks to Traci, I was tempted to try using Anna Maria Horner’s technique for this uber-cute faux smocked – elastic gathered skirt that is a FREE tutorial on her blog. And thanks to Crafty Laine I had the perfect fabric at my fingertips: Kate Spain’s Central Park!

Now I don’t think that I have followed a pattern exactly since I was in jr. high, so of course there are a few changes I made. Mostly in the construction because I like feeding elastic through channels as much as I like scooping up pet poop. And, since I decided to do an extra channel of elastic, it became imperative to use a nifty little tool that I guess will have to make my “favorite tools” list: the loop turner.

It can be used for turning loops, but you can get creative. I have customers bying it to feed the beads on a special jewelry that the get at Santa Fe Jewelry , and I use it to pull elastic in a flat situation. Here in lies the problem, a skirt is not. So, I left openings on either side of the waist, used my loop turner to pull all 5 pieces of elastic through one side – secured the end with a pin, then started pulling it through the other side. This is when it really starts to gather, but with patience, it’s a heck of a lot easier than using a safety pin.

If you have attended our gift bag or wine bag making class, we use the same technique putting the ribbon drawstring into the bag!

When we are snowed in – there are a few things on the top of my list:

1) sewing (of course!)

2) cooking

3) napping

Today, I am making (once again) homemade marshmallows from a recipe that I found several years ago – long before I had a stand-up mixer- in a Martha Stewart Living Magazine. I kept the recipe and waited for the mixer, because I had to see it for my own eyes and taste it on my own lips. I mean, who would have ever thought that you could get a marshmallow unless it said “jet-puffed” across the package? If you need to believe – pull out the mixer (but I do recommend it be the stand-up kind or you are going to get one heck of a work out and make a heck of a mess) and try for yourself! Don’t have a stand-up mixer? Join us at Crafty Laine tomorrow (weather permitting) and I will have plenty to share!!

Marshmallows have to firm for 3 hours so plan accordingly. Original recipe says they can be stored in an airtight container for up to 3 days, I have frozen them and they seem to keep just fine for a couple of weeks – eventually they get frost bite. I have also poured them into two pans and cut them in one-inch squares or cut them out with a cookie cutter, a two-inch marshmallow is a big one but very dramatic and makes for good presentation!

Cooking spray

4 Envelopes Unflavored Gelatin

3 cups Granulated sugar

1 ¼ cups Light Corn Syrup

¼ tsp Salt

2 tsp Vanilla Extract

1 ½ cups Confectioner’s sugar

Spray a 9×13 – inch glass baking dish with cooking spray. Line with parchment paper, allowing a 2-inch overhang along the sides. Spray parchment with cooking spray; set aside. Put granulated sugar, corn syrup, salt and ¾ cup water into a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil over high heat, stirring to dissolve sugar. Cook, without stirring until mixture registers 238° on a candy thermometer, about 9

minutes. Meanwhile, put ¾ cup cold water into the bowl of an electric mixer; sprinkle with gelatin. Let soften 5 minutes.

Attach bowl with gelatin to mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. With mixer on low speed, beat hot syrup into gelatin mixture. Gradually raise speed to high; beat until mixture is very stiff, about 12 minutes. Beat in vanilla. Pour into prepared dish, and smooth with an offset spatula. Set aside, uncovered, until firm, about 3 hours. Sift 1-cup confectioners’ sugar onto a work surface. Un-mold marshmallow onto confectioners’ sugar; remove parchment. Lightly spray a sharp knife with cooking spray, then cut marshmallow into 2-inch squares. Sift remaining ½ cup confectioners’ sugar into a small bowl and roll each marshmallow in the sugar to coat. Yields: about 24

Supplies needed:

fabric

zipper

fusible interfacing (optional)

Step 1: Cut out 4 hearts. 2 will be your outer fabric, 2 will be your lining fabric. Cut a 5th heart out of fusible interfacing and fuse to the heart that will be used as the back of the zipper pouch.

Step 2: mark a line on the back side across one of the hearts that are used for lining. Start and end 3/4″ from each edge.

Step 3: Pin 1 outer heart with right sides together to the lining heart that you just drew the line on. Sew 1/8″ around the drawn line – through the two layers. * Click the picture to see the detail.

Then, cut along the line and at angles into the corners, making sure you don’t cut your stitching. Like shown in the diagram below:

Step 4: turn right side out – and press. Your 2 hearts should be wrong sides together. Place and pin the zipper centered into the opening.

Step 5: Using your zipper foot, stitch around the perimeter of the opening – close to the edge – this will secure the zipper in place.

Step 6: Trim the zipper tape.

Step 7: Pin the outer hearts with right sides together – sew with 1/4″ seam allowance. Repeat this process with the lining hearts  - sew with a slightly larger seam allowance (this will give it room to fit into the outer heart), leaving a 2″ opening on a straight edge for turning later. Trim seam allowances with picking shears – clip the deep v’s.

Step 8: Start turning the lining right side out through the 2″ opening, poking the curves and corners with a blunt object (we use a bone folder) as you go. Pin the opening and topstitch closed.

Step 9: Turn the pouch right side out through the zipper and press.

* we used Central Park fabric designed by Kate Spain